As the full moon rises over Thailand on a single day in November, the country’s rivers and lakes come alive with flickering lights. Loy Krathong, my favourite festival of the year, turns the waters into a glittering spectacle, carrying away the year’s misfortunes.
My birth month is November, so I have two celebrations. I look forward to Loy Kratong every year, and I’ve celebrated it in many different places.
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Songkran is the big festival of the year, lasting over four days, and you get very, very wet. Loy Kratong is a single day. It’s more spiritual and a beautiful gathering of people to embrace change and look forward.
Let me introduce you to the light and water festival that is Loy Krathong.
Origins of Loy Krathong: The Historical Significance
The history of Loy Krathong is as enchanting as the festival itself, though somewhat cloaked in mystery. Some historians believe its origins date back to the Sukhothai period, marking the end of the rainy season.
It takes place on the full moon night of the twelfth month in the Thai lunar calendar, typically falling in November.
While nobody knows for sure the exact origins, there are three considered:
Phra Mae Khongkha
The festival was created to thank the Water Goddess, Phra Mae Khongkha, for providing life-sustaining water and to apologise for polluting it throughout the year. Others trace its roots to Brahmanic tradition, which Thai Buddhists gradually adapted into the celebration we know today.
Nang Noppamas
According to one popular legend, Loy Krathong was initiated by Nang Noppamas, a consort of a Sukhothai king, who crafted the first krathong, a floating basket adorned with flowers, incense, and candles.
Over time, this act evolved into a grand festivity, symbolising a fresh start and letting go of anger, misfortune, and past grievances by floating the beautifully decorated Krathongs on rivers and lakes.
Diwali Hindu Festival
Another theory suggests that Loy Krathong was influenced by the Diwali Hindu festival, also known as the Festival of Lights. The custom of floating illuminated decorations and the shared themes of renewal and thanksgiving underpins this connection.
Regardless of its exact origins, the festival holds deep cultural and spiritual significance for the Thai people. It serves as a poignant reminder of their harmonious relationship with nature and the cyclical passage of time.
While it’s not an official public holiday, schools, businesses, and government departments honour it, with most festivities happening at night. So how is it celebrated in the 21st Century? Read on.
Modern Celebrations: How Thais Honour Loy Krathong Today
On Loy Krathong day, we still build Krathongs and release them, most commonly in a flowing river or the sea, so that the krathong takes away any negativity from the past year. Personal items like finger and toenail clippings are sometimes added (we do this every year) to promote new, positive ‘growth’ in our lives for the following year.
I love to see all the Krathongs sailing down the river, heading out to sea. I also like to think about all the people who have sent one, what their prayers and requests for the new year are, and how they might be feeling. The biggest emotion during Loy Krathong is ‘hope’ for continued or renewed success and happiness.
Environmental Impact
One of Loy Krathong’s past challenges has been the impact these makeshift boats have on the environment.
Post-festival clean-ups have revealed significant amounts of waste, prompting growing environmental concerns. In response to this, the Thai government has implemented measures encouraging the use of biodegradable materials for crafting Krathongs. Traditional Krathongs are typically made from natural elements like banana tree trunks and lotus leaves, which are eco-friendly alternatives to the previously used Styrofoam and other non-biodegradable materials.
Following on from what we’ve witnessed at the last two Loy Krathong festivals, we’ve started making them out of solid fish food. It’s a beautiful opportunity to participate in the festival, and the fish in the rivers and oceans get to enjoy a massive feed.
The government has also suggested that if you’re not making biodegradable ones, you don’t place them in the river; instead, put them in a pool at home and dispose of them thoughtfully afterwards.
These changes highlight the evolving ways in which the festival is celebrated, reflecting both an adherence to tradition and a growing sense of environmental responsibility.
Are you ready to find out where to celebrate Loy Krathong while you’re here?
Where to Experience Loy Krathong in Thailand
Loy Krathong is such an important night on the Thai calendar that it’s celebrated in every province. So, no matter where you are, you can witness and participate in it. Here are the primary places it’s celebrated.
Bangkok
Would you believe that in my eight years here, I’ve never had an opportunity to celebrate Loy Krathong in Bangkok? So, I can’t give you any insider tips, but this is what I know.
Bangkok is undoubtedly one of the most vibrant locations in which to experience Loy Krathong. The Chao Phraya River is the central festive hub, with countless locals and tourists gathering to float their Krathongs on the shimmering water. The number of boats sailing down the river is an incredible spectacle.
Besides the river itself, major hotspots within the city include:
- Asiatique the Riverfront
- Wat Saket (the Golden Mount)
- Phra Athit Pier
These spots are popular for their beautiful views and lively atmosphere.
Many riverside hotels, like the Anantara Riverside Bangkok and the iconic Mandarin Oriental Bangkok, offer special Loy Krathong packages. These often include a luxurious dinner with traditional Thai performances, culminating in the opportunity to release your own krathong. Opting for such packages can be a fantastic way to combine comfort with cultural immersion.
Throughout the city, various public parks, such as Benjakitti Park and Lumphini Park, are family-friendly and popular places to celebrate. In particular, the lake in the middle of Lumphini Park is a stunning place to release your Krathongs, and I’ll get there one day.
Nonthaburi
I’ve added this city as our last two Loy Krathongs were there. Nonthaburi is the next province to Bangkok. Many expats now live there as it’s cheaper than the city. We lived there for over a year and were surprised at the number of tourists there. Nonthaburi has some gorgeous temples, but that’s for another article.
For my first Loy Krathong in Nonthaburi, we took our Krathongs to one of the many temples along the river. If you’ve read my blogs, you’ll know I love visiting Thai temples. We got a blessing from a monk and then put our Krathongs into the Chao Phraya River.
I really enjoyed how much Buddhism was involved that year, as in the past, for me, it’s only been about the launching of the Krathongs.
My 80-year-old mum was here from Australia the following year, and we wanted to take her to dinner by the river. This was the first time we’ve seen Krathongs made from fish food, and we will forever follow this lead.
After an amazing seafood dinner, we put our Krathongs into the river. She loved the light show up and down both sides of the river and laughed as the fish tried to gobble down the pieces of her Krathong, impeding its progress to the sea.
Pattaya
Pattaya is fortunate to be right on the Gulf of Thailand. With all that beach access, it’s only natural that Loy Krathong would be huge there. I had a wonderful night at my favourite spot at Jomtien Beach. If you’ve never been, it’s an excellent setup. Beach chairs can be hired, and food and drink are served. I’ve been going to lot 17 at Dongtan Beach for years.
While they mostly close at sunset, they stay open late on special occasions like Loy Krathong. We purchased Krathongs from a nearby pop-up vendor and put them out to sea. Then, we sat back with our friends on the beach chairs and had a few beers. It was lovely.
Pro tip: if you’re going to buy a Krathong from a vendor, don’t just stop at the first one. Walk around and see what they all have to offer. It’s highly likely that prices drop as you pass them all. The one at the very end may just have the most beautifully designed one of all and at a better price.
For those in Pattaya Central, the beach is amazing and one of the best places to celebrate the festival. You can enjoy a vibrant display of lights, music, and traditional dance performances along the beachfront.
In addition to the krathong floating, don’t miss the chance to witness the impressive fireworks display that lights up the night sky. Finally, watching the Krathongs head out to sea and taking peoples’ blessings out to the Gods is the highlight of the evening.
Cross Pratamnak Hill which Paula reviewed recently, would be a great place to stay for Loy Krathong.
Chiang Mai
Chiang Mai offers an immersive experience for those looking to partake in Loy Krathong. The celebration adds a layer of cultural richness due to its overlap with the Yi Peng festival.
During this time, the city is illuminated by thousands of lanterns, creating a mesmerising, almost ethereal atmosphere. As you wander through the historical quarters, you’ll find vibrant displays of colourful paper lanterns, each one more intricate than the last.
The festivities in Chiang Mai are quite elaborate. One of the main attractions is the Yi Peng spectacle, where countless lanterns are released into the sky, symbolising the release of bad luck and the welcoming of good fortune. This creates breathtaking views and an unforgettable experience. Additionally, visitors to Chiang Mai can enjoy the Krathong Parade and the lighting of over 20,000 Lanna candles, further adding to the magical ambience.
Loy Krathong in Chiang Mai appears more ethereal as the water festival is linked with the light festival; it’s like a double celebration of things that make people happy.
The 2024 Yi Peng Chiang Mai CAD Khom Loy Sky Lantern Festival promises an event you won’t want to miss. Whether you choose to float a krathong down the river or release a lantern into the sky, Chiang Mai offers an unparalleled setting for celebrating Loy Krathong.
Will you buy a Krathong or make your own?
A Tourist’s Guide to Making a Krathong
Krathongs are available to purchase all over Thailand on the day and, depending on where you go, can range from 50 baht to thousands of baht.
However, there is something deeply rewarding about immersing yourself in the day’s culture and making your own. It’s really easy.
To start, you’ll need a few basic materials. Traditionally, Krathongs are constructed using natural elements like banana trees, leaves, and lotus petals. As I mentioned, we now use solid fish food as part of the base. These can often be found in local markets in Thailand, especially leading up to the festival.
Here’s a step-by-step guide to creating your own krathong:
- Gather Your Materials: Collect a slice of banana tree trunk (approx. 2-3 inches thick), banana leaves, flowers, incense sticks, and a small candle. For a more eco-friendly approach, this is where I replace the banana trunk with solid fish food, other biodegradable materials such as baked bread or coconut shells work well too.
- Prepare the Base: Start by placing the banana trunk slice as the base of your krathong. This will act as the floating platform.
- Attach the Leaves: Cut the banana leaves into strips and use them to wrap around the edge of the banana trunk. Secure these with small pins or toothpicks.
- Add the Decorations: Now, lay lotus petals or other flowers on top of the base. Be creative! You can use colourful flowers, folded leaves, and other natural decorations. Try to use items with lots of colours—it’s a festival, after all, so go bold.
- Insert Incense and Candle: Place a few incense sticks and a candle in the centre of your decorated krathong. When you float the krathong, these will signify your respect and prayers.
- Personal Touch: I think this is the most essential part of building your own. Add something personal. As I mentioned, we add nail clippings. Strands, hair, or coins are also popular personal items.
Once your krathong is ready, it’s time for the main event. Take it to a nearby river, lake, or pond during the night of the full moon. Light the candle and the incense sticks, make a wish, and gently place your krathong on the water. Watch it float away, carrying your wishes and prayers.
Full disclosure: I find making my own Krathong time-consuming and hard on the hands. All that bending of sticks and holding them in place while you tie them is hard work. Consider buying one from a local person. They’ve spent time creating something beautiful, and they can probably use the money for vital things like feeding their family.
Come to Loy Krathong in November
Will you be in Thailand in November? I said it before, but it’s worth saying again that this is my favourite festival on the Thai calendar. I love sailing the Krathongs and the symbolism of saying goodbye to the negatives of the previous year and looking forward to many positive things in the next year.
I really hope you get to experience Loy Krathong in Thailand, no matter where you’re staying. What would you wish for for the coming year?
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