Exploring Bangkok’s Saen Saep Canal

Bangkok’s Saen Saep Canal doesn’t adorn postcards, its weather-worn, graffiti-covered walls and sometimes pungent aroma are precisely why it’s unlikely to appear on many travel brochures. And that’s exactly why you should consider exploring it.

I think a couple of hours riding the length of the canal and jumping off and on again when you see something of interest is a wonderful comparison to the glimmering shopping malls and ancient temples and a wonderful way to get to know Bangkok more intimately.

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Did you know that Bangkok was once known as the ‘Venice of the East’? With over 1,500 kilometers of canals crisscrossing the city, These waterways tell a story that’s often overlooked by the average visitor.

Traveling by canal boat in Bangkok is like stepping into a different world – Anthony Bourdain

The Saen Saep Canal is the biggest and easiest to explore. Riding its speedy canal boats is an exciting way to explore the city, so we encourage you to jump on board next time you visit.

The Saen Saep canal walkway

These waterways offer a unique perspective, allowing you to travel through the city and avoid traffic, while observing the communities that live along its banks.

Today we’ll share everything you need to feel confident to ride the canals like a local. These boats are a quick, cheap, and fun way to travel in Bangkok, so let’s start planning.

Exploring the Saen Saep Canal

The Khlong Saen Saep, Bangkok’s best-known canal, stretches an impressive 72 km across the city. However, only the final 18km are covered by the popular Saen Saep Khlong boat service.

Morning passengers on the Saen Saep canal

The canal is not just a transport route. It’s a piece of Thai history. Built in 1837 to transport soldiers and weapons during conflicts with Cambodia, it took 3 years to complete. However, it was more than 150 years later in 1990 that a public boat service began.

Today these “water buses” as they sometimes called, are an important part of the city’s public transport network.

Stops on the Saen Saep Canal

Click the map for a larger version

The two routes service the canal carrying 60,000 passengers daily. With 100 boats each seating 40-50 people, this is an excellent opportunity observing local life.

So when is the best time to ride them? Well, the boats are mainly used by commuters heading to and from work and operate on a schedule to suit. The first services depart at 6:15am and finish at 8:30pm on weekdays and 6:45am to 7:15pm on weekends.

How to ride canal boats

I vividly remember the first time I saw a canal boat at Pratu Nam pier. It was my first visit to Bangkok in the mid-1990s. The afternoon peak was in full swing and locals were jumping on and off with ease. I imagined trying it and ending up in the canal. We stood and watched as a few boats came and went and decided joining at that time was not a good idea.

An empty boat waiting passengers at Pratunam Pier

Boarding the Canal Boat

So what do you need to know before you jump on board? Here are our tips.

  • Travel is most comoftable after 10am when you will more likely find a seat.
  • If unsure of your footing, board near the attendant who will sense your hesitance and usually offer assistance.
  • Once onboard find a seat or something to hold onto. The conductor will find you to sell you a ticket.
  • Have small change ready, a 20 Baht note or coins in much appreciated.
  • The boats sit low in the water and move quickly. To stop passengers from getting wet, each boat has transparent plastic sides that can be lowered to avoid splashing from high water after heavy rain.
  • Some services have special seating for monks and women, so be aware and follow the arrangement.
  • Buy a day ticket so that you can jump on and off – keep your ticket safe to show the staff when you reboard. A single ride costs 10-20 baht, depending on distance.

Things to consider

Riding the boats mid-morning or early afternoon is my recommendation for first-timers because there are fewer travellers and it’s less stressful.

There are stairs to cross the canal at several points

If you have mobility issues, this may not be the right activity. Thailand isn’t very accessible, there is no flat path to the piers and steps on the boat as you board. Instead enjoy the view of the boats in action from the bridge near Pratunam walkway and ride the Chao Phraya Express Boat instead. This applies to families with small children too.

If the nearest pier to your destination is on the opposite side of the canal make sure there is a bridge nearby or ride to the next stop.

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Where do the boats operate?

The Saen Saep service runs between Pom Prap Sattru Phai and Bang Kapi districts in Bangkok. To ride the full route, you need to change boats at Pratunam Pier.

The garden at Jim Thompson House which can be reached from Hua Chang Pier

The Golden Mount route: Which stops to get off

There are five stops from Wat Saket (Golden Mount Temple) to Pratunam. This route is the best choice for first time visitors with lots of attrations along the way.

Pier NumberNameAttraction
1Panfa LeelardGolden Mount, The Giant Swing, Democracy Monument (short walk), Khao San Road (15 min)
2Talad BobaeBobae Garment Market (cheap retail and wholesale)
3Saphan CharoenpolLotus supermarket, Stadium One shopping center, street food along Banthat Thong Road
4Hua ChangBangkok Art and Culture Centre, Jim Thompson House, MBK Center, BTS National Stadium and Siam stations, closest to BTS Ratchathewi station
5PratunamPratunam garment district, CentralWorld, Pantip Plaza where a new food center has opened.
The grounds of the Golden Mount Temple near Panfa Leelard Pier

Highlights on The NIDA Route

24 stops from Pratunam to Wat Sriboonruang Interchange and NIDA (National Institute of Development Administration)

Graffiti lines the canal walls at several spots along the route

Less interesting for first-time visitors, but great to explore off the beaten track. If staying in Asok to get to Chinatown and Khao San Road.

Ten stops worth exploring*

Pier NumberNameAttraction
1PratunamPratunam garment district, CentralWorld, Pantip Plaza
2ChidlomCentral Chidlom Mall
3WirelessNai Lert Park Heritage Home (5-minute walk)
4Nana NueaBumrungrad Hospital, “Little Arab town”
6Asoke-PetchaburiMRT Phetchaburi station, SWU university night market
10Baan Don MosquePopular market for local Muslim community, morning street food stalls
11ThonglorBoutique shopping malls, The Commons (15-min walk), Sukhumvit road (30-min walk)
20MahadthaiRajamangala National Stadium, Indoor Stadium Huamark
22The Mall Bang KapiThe Mall Bangkapi on Lat Phrao Road
23Bang KapiBang Kapi market
*Stops of most interest to visitors

Klong Saen Saep’s Bang Kapi-Minburi route

A more recent addition to the canal service that launched in 2022. This new Electric Boat Line has 12 piers. It uses electric boats that are easier to board and have more comfortable seating. Known as the Khlong Saen Saeb Northern Line, it’s a route that makes reaching some of Bangkok’s outlying sites cheaper and easier.

We haven’t ridden this one yet, but we’ll share our thoughts next month.

How to reach the canal boat piers

You can reach the canal boat piers using Bangkok’s public transportation system. The city’s BTS Skytrain, MRT subway, and bus lines converge near major pier points, making them easily accessible.

The best access points are from the following interchanges:

BTS Skytrain

The BTS Skytrain is one of the fastest and most convenient ways to reach the canal boat starting points.

  • Ratchathewi BTS station is a 400m walk to Saphan Hua Chang and the easiest access point for the Golden Mount line.
  • National Stadium BTS – 550m walk via Jim Thompson House to Hua Chang Pier
  • Chit Lom BTS Station is a 600m walk from E1 Chidlom Pier for the NIDA line.
  • Phloen Chit Station is an 800m walk to Saphan Wittayu Pier.
  • Asoke BTS Station is 1.2km walk to Asok Pier.
Asok Pier Bangkok

MRT Subway

For travellers staying in areas covered by the MRT Subway, this offers another efficient mode of transport to access the canal boat lines.

MRT stations will get you to the NIDA route piers:

  • Phetchaburi MRT Station is just 100m from Asok Pier.
  • Sukhumvit MRT Station is 1.1km to Asok Pier.
  • MRT Yellow Line Bang Kapi station is a 700m walk to Bang Kapi Mall Pier.
Which route will you take?

Start Exploring

After a few years of riding Bangkok’s canal boats, I’ve decided this is my favourite way to get from one end of the city to the other. Sure, the boats can be crowded and it sometimes smells a bit in summer but there’s something special about these canals and the communities they serve.

Each pier offers a chance to explore a little of Bangkok life and the city from a new perspective.

Next time you’re in Bangkok, I really think you should take yourself off on a bit of an adventure. Buy a day ticket and explore the road less travelled. See what you discover. I hope to see you on the canals!


About the author: Paula Morgan first visited Thailand in 1999 and has been returning regularly ever since. She is currently staying in Bangkok. She loves exploring its less visited spots, not just the iconic landmarks and historic temples, but the hidden alleys, family run cafes and food stalls and the small communities in the islands of the south and the lush forests and mountains of Thailand’s north.