Song Wat Road: A 2-Hour Food and Photo Walk Through Bangkok’s Coolest Street
Song Wat Road may be one of the oldest streets in Bangkok, but despite visiting the city for more than 15 years, it took a guidebook spotted in a Central Embassy bookstore to finally lead me there. Running parallel to Yaowarat Road and the Chao Phraya River, this historic street managed to find its way onto TimeOut’s World’s 40 Coolest Neighbourhoods in 2023. Let’s go explore and find out why!
A 1.2km stretch of restored shophouses along the Chao Phraya River has become Bangkok’s most photogenic food street, where century-old bao makers sit metres from creative dessert labs. This guide takes you to the best spots, perfect for a morning or afternoon exploration.
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Quick Facts
- Length: 1.2km (easily walkable in 2-3 hours with stops)
- Best Time: 10:30am – 3pm (most shops open)
- Getting There: Ratchawong Pier (express boat) or Wat Mangkon MRT
- Location: Parallel to Yaowarat Road in Old Bangkok (ถนนสงวัด in Thai) Address: Song Wat Road, Samphanthawong, Bangkok
- Must-Try: Gu Long’s 100-year-old recipe baos, Agar Raga’s creative Thai dishes
Song Wat Road captures a fascinating moment of transformation in Bangkok. Much of this revival is thanks to Kiattiwat Srichanwanpen, who founded the Made in Song Wat Community in 2022.
What began with 10 local businesses has grown to over 60. They’ve even published their own neighborhood guidebooks. While some buildings still store spices and textiles as they have for generations, others now house experimental cafes and art spaces created by community members.
Our walk takes us through this living timeline. We will pass traditional buildings now housing experimental kitchens, century-old family businesses, and creative new galleries. You’ll discover how the street’s diverse religious landmarks – a unique neoclassical mosque, Buddhist temple and Chinese shrine – reflect the communities who’ve called Song Wat home through the generations.
The Walking Route
Start at Ratchawong Pier around 10:30am for this food-focused walking tour. Please note sharing is advised if you intend to sample everything on offer.
Here’s our stop-by-stop guide:
Ar Liang Dumpling: This stall, on the corner of Song Wat Road, outside 7 Eleven, sells some of the best sui mai in Bangkok, offering pork and prawn options. I prefer the pork. Don’t skip the chili sauce and fried garlic! 10 pieces 60 baht.
Agar Raga: This quirky cafe specialises in creative, low-calorie dishes and desserts made from gelatin or agar. Perhaps try the pad Thai, if you’re a fan of this infamous Thai dish. We ordered the crumbed eggplant with its two agar-based sauces.
It’s perfect for a light first course. The soy sauce had a paste texture and was delicious, while the sriracha pearls were nice but not as punchy as expected. I loved this spot and will return soon to try more main courses.
FV Cafe: Quirky decor is the drawcard to this cafe that serves teas and fruit drinks made from unusual fruits and vegetables.
Song Wat Coffee Roasters: Our next stop is only a block away along Rong Khom. Here, you will find Song Wat Coffee Roasters.
Google reviews told us we must try a pandan canelé, and it was impossible to resist as its a combination of two things I love.
While it was delicious, it was different to the French version and more like a croissant texture.
Rong Klan Nuea Beef Noodles: We always miss out here. It’s a local favourite and there is almost always a queue for their famous aromatic beef noodles.
Even at 11am on a Tuesday they were crowded. The aroma wafting out has made me more determined to make a trip back soon for these and wait in line if necessary!
Gu Long Bao: Next up is a cute Bao Art mural which announces you have arrived at Gu Long Bao, famous for their 100-year-old recipe.
Priced from 10- 30 Baht each, you can choose from steamed or roasted versions. We ordered three roasted ones, a pork, a white sesame and a taro. All were delicious but the pork won the day for me.
Arteasia Desserts & Cafe: Hidden away on the second floor, this cafe beautifully blends its new interior with the building’s original retro structure.
We came for their creative Thai-Western fusion cakes and tarts, but stayed longer just to admire the pretty stained glass windows and thoughtful design.
Staff recommended we try the two as the most popular tarts:
- Two Faced Mango – which is basically fresh mango, sticky rice and mango cream cheese.
- Going Bananas – made with banana, salted egg, coconut milk, mochi, and caramelised banana.
Both were delicious and we will be back to try the 8 mini tart tasting plate next time.
Nuury Chestnut Ice Cream: This unassuming spot was actually one of the pioneers that helped revive Song Wat, long before the fancy cafes arrived. They serve three classic flavors: coconut, chocolate and coffee. While the ice cream itself is straightforward, it’s the signature frozen premium chestnuts that make it special, adding perfect salty crunch to the sweet dessert.
Between Food Stops
Keep your camera ready while you’re walking between eateries. The street has become increasingly popular with local photographers and it’s easy to see why. From impromptu art exhibits to buildings in original condition awaiting new life.
Some compare it to nearby Talad Noi, but I think Song Wat has its own distinctive character – more intimate and food-focused.
Photo-Worthy Landmarks
As you walk, these architectural gems tell the story of Song Wat’s past:
Tuek Khaek Building: Currently under restoration, this building was once an Indian department store famous for its stunning fabrics, which were said to be popular with the royal family. It stands at the corner of Ratchawong and Song Wat Road. Its Gothic design is almost ready to emerge, and I am keen to see what will open in this space.
Lao Pun Tao Kong Shine was reconstructed in 1917 after the original shrine, built in 1906, was lost to fire. This site has long been a haven for local merchants, who pray here for safety and success in their ventures.
Luang Kocha Itsahak Mosque is a Neoclassical-style mosque built by Luang Kocha Itsahak, who served as an interpreter in the royal court. It offers a sanctuary for both local Muslims and visiting spice merchants seeking a place of prayer. Behind the building is a small cemetery.
Road of Cinnamon occupies one of Song Wat’s historic shophouses. This treasure trove of old wares is said to contain goods from all 77 Provinces in Thailand. The jam packed space feels like stepping into a carefully curated museum of found objects, from traditional ceramics to contemporary design pieces.
Learn more about the history of the road here.
Song Wat Road vs Talad Noi: Which Should You Visit?
Song Wat Road connects directly to Talad Noi at its southern end near the Marine Department Pier. While both streets attract photographers and cafe-hoppers, they offer quite different experiences.
Choose Song Wat Road if you want:
- Better food options and historic recipe shops like Gu Long Bao
- Restored shophouses with creative cafes and galleries
- A more curated, neighbourhood feel with clear signage
- Easy navigation with the Made in Song Wat guidebooks
Choose Talad Noi if you want:
- Grittier, more industrial street art photography
- Working warehouses and auto repair shops alongside cafes
- A rawer, less polished atmosphere
- Quieter streets with fewer tourists
The best option? Visit both in one afternoon. They’re only a 5-minute walk apart. Start at Ratchawong Pier for Song Wat’s food stops in the morning, then walk south to explore Talad Noi’s street art in the afternoon when the light is better for photos. End at Marine Department Pier to catch the express boat back.
Street art to watch for
Song Wat Road isn’t just about food and architecture. It’s an open-air gallery of ever increasing street art.
A playful modern addition, the “I wanna Bangkok” sign represents a brand trying to find fun new ways to promote the city. Read the story behind the brand name here.
The next piece we came across was the Bao Art Murals near Gu Long Bao shop.
The most popular mural in the area is ROA’s Elephants created during the 2016 Bukruk Festival.
And one of the most recent works is Kitsune Jolene 2024 work is opposite ROA’s elephant. It was created for @belgiuminthailand
Shops and Galleries we enjoyed
- PLAY Art House: I have visited this gallery space a few times and I always buy something. Along with exhibiting, they sell some quirky souvenirs.
- TARS Unlimited: A small space behind the Bao Shop and in front of the mosque.
- Road Of Cinnamon – A double fronted shop jam-packed with goods from handcrafted chopsticks to old ceramics. I spotted several items I recognised from my 70s childhood.
Practical Tips
- I like to do my walks earlier but most of the shops and cafes along this road open at 10 or 11am, so aim to start then. Early afternoon is fine too if you can handle the heat.
- If possible, do this midweek to avoid some of the young local crowd who head here to meet up on weekends.
- Song Wat Road has transformed dramatically in the evening over the past year. The middle section in particular has come to life with bars and restaurants. While some areas remain quiet after dark, you’ll find plenty of action now. Popular spots include Hit the Road (closes 10:30pm), We Didn’t Land on the Moon (closes midnight), and Mischa Cheap (open till 1am). For dinner, try SongViet at SongWat, La Malifeta Vermuteria, Destiny @ Songwat, Baan Rim Naam Songwat (relocated from Talad Noi), or Naam 1608.
- Bring cash for traditional vendors.
- Pick up the Made in Song Wat Community guidebooks to discover the stories behind the buildings and people of Song Wat.
Frequently Asked Questions
Getting There & Away
Start: The easiest place to begin is the Ratchawong Pier (express boat) however if you are closer to the Blue MRT line you can easily walk from Wat Mangkon MRT through Chinatown’s market stalls.
From Popular Bangkok Areas:
- Sukhumvit: Take BTS to Saphan Taksin, then express boat to Ratchawong Pier (30 mins)
- Silom: Take MRT to Hua Lamphong, walk or taxi to Ratchawong Pier (15 mins)
- Khao San Road: Taxi or Grab (15-20 mins, 80-120 baht)
End: Marine Department Pier (to explore Talad Noi) or walk to Wat Mangkon/Hua Lamphong MRT.
Want to stay
The more I visit this area the more I am inclined to recommend it as a place to spend a few nights. I intend to do this on my next visit.
There are a couple of good hostels making this a great choice for solo travellers who don’t want to stay in Khao San Road or party central hotspot Sukhumvit.
- Mangkon Hostel – sits at the top of Song Wat Road and is a new hostel that a friend recommended to us recently.
- Hostel Urby – a hostel with dorms and double rooms – also site of a popular rooftop cafe and bar
- Marlowe Suite – Self contained studio perfect for couples or families
- Loy La Long – one of Bangkok’s unique properties in a wooden house on the river.
Song Wat Road offers a glimpse into Bangkok’s diverse cultural tapestry, making it essential for those eager to explore the city’s architectural and artistic treasures.
Bring your appetite and your camera when you visit – there is plenty to feed them both! The street may only cover a little over 1km but you can spend hours here depending on how long you linger over each bite!
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