Song Wat Road: A 2-Hour Food and Photo Walk Through Bangkok’s Coolest Street

Song Wat Road may be one of the oldest streets in Bangkok, but despite visiting the city for more than 15 years, it took a guidebook spotted in a Central Embassy bookstore to finally lead me there. Running parallel to Yaowarat Road and the Chao Phraya River, this historic street managed to find its way onto TimeOut’s World’s 40 Coolest Neighbourhoods in 2023. Let’s go explore and find out why!

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A 1.2km stretch of restored shophouses along the Chao Phraya River has become Bangkok’s most photogenic food street, where century-old bao makers sit metres from creative dessert labs. This guide takes you to the best spots, perfect for a morning or afternoon exploration.

Quick Facts

  • Length: 1.2km (easily walkable in 2-3 hours with stops)
  • Best Time: 10:30am – 3pm (most shops open)
  • Getting There: Ratchawong Pier (express boat) or Wat Mangkon MRT
  • Must-Try: Gu Long’s 100-year-old recipe baos, Agar Raga’s creative Thai dishes

Song Wat Road captures a fascinating moment of transformation in Bangkok. Much of this revival is thanks to Kiattiwat Srichanwanpen, who founded the Made in Song Wat Community in 2022.

What began with 10 local businesses has grown to over 60. They’ve even published their own neighborhood guidebooks. While some buildings still store spices and textiles as they have for generations, others now house experimental cafes and art spaces created by community members.

Song Wat Road guidebooks
Made in Song Wat souviners

Our walk takes us through this living timeline. We will pass traditional buildings now housing experimental kitchens, century-old family businesses, and creative new galleries. You’ll discover how the street’s diverse religious landmarks – a unique neoclassical mosque, Buddhist temple and Chinese shrine – reflect the communities who’ve called Song Wat home through the generations.

The Walking Route

Start at Ratchawong Pier around 10:30 AM for this food-focused walking tour. Please note sharing is advised if you intend to sample everything on offer.

Here’s our stop-by-stop guide:

Ar Liang Dumpling: This stall, on the corner of Song Wat Road, outside 7 Eleven, sells some of the best sui mai in Bangkok, offering pork and prawn options. I prefer the pork. Don’t skip the chili sauce and fried garlic! 10 pieces 60 baht.

Ar Luang Dumplings Song Wat
Ar Liang Dumplings on the Corner of Song Wat Road

Agar Raga: This quirky cafe specialises in creative, low-calorie dishes and desserts made from gelatin or agar. Perhaps try the pad Thai, if you’re a fan of this infamous Thai dish. We ordered the crumbed eggplant with its two agar-based sauces.

Agar Raga eggplant entree
Photo Must-try: Crumbed eggplant with agar-based sauces

It’s perfect for a light first course. The soy sauce had a paste texture and was delicious, while the sriracha pearls were nice but not as punchy as expected. I loved this spot and will return soon to try more main courses.

FV Cafe: Quirky decor is the drawcard to this cafe that serves teas and fruit drinks made from unusual fruits and vegetables.

Song Wat Coffee Roasters: Our next stop is only a block away along Rong Khom. Here, you will find Song Wat Coffee Roasters.

Google reviews told us we must try a pandan canelé, and it was impossible to resist as its a combination of two things I love.

Song Wat Coffee Roasters pandan Canele
Canelé shaped and delicious but other canelé I have tasted

While it was delicious, it was different to the French version and more like a croissant texture.

Rong Klan Nuea Beef Noodles: We always miss out here. It’s a local favourite and there is almost always a queue for their famous aromatic beef noodles.

Rong Klan Nuea Noodles Song Wat Road
The noodles we keep missing!

Even at 11am on a Tuesday they were crowded. The aroma wafting out has made me more determined to make a trip back soon for these and wait in line if necessary!

Gu Long Bao: Next up is a cute Bao Art mural which announces you have arrived at Gu Long Bao, famous for their 100-year-old recipe.

Gu Long Bao's famous Bao
I asked the owner how many bao they make each day, he laughed and said he had lost count years ago!

Priced from 10- 30 Baht each, you can choose from steamed or roasted. versions. We ordered three roasted ones, a pork, a white sesame and a taro. All were delicious but the pork won the day for me.

Arteasia Desserts & Cafe: Hidden away on the second floor, this cafe beautifully blends its new interior with the building’s original retro structure.

We came for their creative Thai-Western fusion cakes and tarts, but stayed longer just to admire the pretty stained glass windows and thoughtful design.

Arteasia Tarts, Going Bananas and 2 Faced Mango
Going Bananas and 2-Faced Mango at Arteasia

Staff recommended we try the two as the most popular tarts:

  • Two Faced Mango – which is basically fresh mango, sticky rice and mango cream cheese.
  • Going Bananas – made with banana, salted egg, coconut milk, mochi, and caramelised banana.

Both were delicious and we will be back to try the 8 mini tart tasting plate next time.

Nuury Chestnut Ice Cream: This unassuming spot was actually one of the pioneers that helped revive Song Wat, long before the fancy cafes arrived. They serve three classic flavors: coconut, chocolate and coffee. While the ice cream itself is straightforward, it’s the signature frozen premium chestnuts that make it special, adding perfect salty crunch to the sweet dessert.

Between Food Stops

Keep your camera ready while you’re walking between eateries. The street has become increasingly popular with local photographers and it’s easy to see why. From improptu art exhibits to buildings in original condition awaiting new life.

Fruit and Vegetable art on Song Wat Road
Don’t forget to look up!

Some compare it to nearby Talad Noi, but I think Song Wat has its own distinctive character – more intimate and food-focused.

T-shirts on a building on Song Wat Road

Photo-Worthy Landmarks

As you walk, these architectural gems tell the story of Song Wat’s past:

Tuek Khaek Building: Currently under restoration, this building was once an Indian department store famous for its stunning fabrics, which were said to be popular with the royal family. It stands at the corner of Ratchawong and Song Wat Road. Its Gothic design is almost ready to emerge, and I am keen to see what will open in this space.

Lao Pun Tao Kong Shine was reconstructed in 1917 after the original shrine, built in 1906, was lost to fire. This site has long been a haven for local merchants, who pray here for safety and success in their ventures.

Luang Kocha Itsahak Mosque is a Neoclassical-style mosque was built by Luang Kocha Itsahak, who served as an interpreter in the royal court. It offers a sanctuary for both local Muslims and visiting spice merchants seeking a place of prayer. Behind the building is a small cemetery.

Luang Kocha Itsahak Mosque Song Wat
Luang Kocha Itsahak Mosque

Road of Cinnamon occupies one of Song Wat’s historic shophouses. This treasure trove of old wares is said to contain goods from all 77 Provinces in Thailand. The jam packed space feels like stepping into a carefully curated museum of found objects, from traditional ceramics to contemporary design pieces.

Learn more about the history of the road here.

Street art to watch for

Song Wat Road isn’t just about food and architecture. It’s an open-air gallery of every increasing street art.

A playful modern addition, the “I wanna Bangkok” sign represents a brand trying to find fun new ways to promote the city. I Wanna Bangkok sign – A brand who wants to find new fun ways to promote Bangkok. Read the story behind the brand name here.

I wanna Bangkok sign in Song Wat Road
This sign is popular for selfies

The next piece we came across is the Bao Art Murals near Gu Long Bao shop.

Bao Mural on Song Wat Road

The most popular mural in the area is ROA’s Elephants created during the 2016 Bukruk Festival.

ROA elephants in Bangkok
Belgian Artist Roa painted these in 2016

And one of the most recent works Kitsune Jolene 2024 work is opposite ROA’s. It was created for @belgiuminthailand

New mural in Song Wat Bangkok by Kitsune Jolene of a woman with a fan
Kitsune Jolene work part of a “Brighten your street, colour your neighbourhood” Project

Shops and Galleries we enjoyed

  • PLAY Art House: I have visited this gallery space a few times and I always buy something. Along with exhibiting, they sell some quirky souvenirs.
  • TARS Unlimited: A small space behind the Bao Shop and in front of the mosque.
  • Road Of Cinnamon – A double fronted shop jam-packed with goods from handcrafted chopsticks to old ceramics. I spotted several items I recognised from my 70s childhood.

Practical Tips

  • I like to do my walks earlier but most of the shops and cafes along this road open at 10 or 11am, so aim to start then. Early afternoon is fine too if you can handle the heat.
  • If possible, do this midweek to avoid some of the young local crowd who head here to meet up on weekends.
  • While there are a couple of great sunset spots along the road, some of the atmosphere is lost in the evenings when many places are closed. This seems to be changing as more bars open along the street – at last count we found 5 – mostly down at the Road of Cinnamon end of the street.
  • Bring cash for traditional vendors.
  • Pick up the Made in Song Wat Community guidebooks to discover the stories behind the buildings and people of Song Wat.
Song walk road map
Maps and signboards will help you learn about Song Wat Road along the way.

Getting There & Away

Start: The easiest place to begin is the Ratchawong Pier (express boat) however if you are closer to the Blue MRT line you can easily walk from Wat Mangkon MRT through Chinatown’s market stalls.

End: Marine Department Pier (to explore Talad Noi) or walk to Wat Mangkon/Hua Lamphong MRT.

Want to stay

The more I visit this area the more I am inclined to recommend it as a place to spend a few nights. I intend to do this on my next visit.

There are a couple of good hostels making this a great choice for solo travellers who don’t want to stay in Khao San Road or party central hotspot Sukhumvit.

Song Wat Road offers a glimpse into Bangkok’s diverse cultural tapestry, making it essential for those eager to explore the city’s architectural and artistic treasures.

Bring your appetite and your camera when you visit – there is plenty to feed them both! The street may only cover a little over 1km but you can spend hours here depending on how long you linger over each bite!

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